Gampingan Temple

Reading the Message from Nirvana in Gampingan Temple
Not all temples have typical, beautiful relief since generally they are decorated with statues and general relief as those found in almost all other temples. One of the temples with specific, beautiful relief is Gampingan, a temple that was incidentally found by a brick craftsman in Gampingan Village, Piyungan, Bantul in 1995. Small and incomplete, Gampingan temple is still rich in the enchanting relief.
One of the reliefs that we can see in this temple is the animal relief at the foot of it. The animal relief in this temple looks so natural that we can name the described animals. It is quite rare to find such relief; at least, they are only Prambanan and Mendut temples that have similar relief. All of the reliefs are decorated with ivory plant, namely padmamula (the roots of lotus plant) that is believed to be the source of life.
When YogYES walked around the temple, it clearly look that birds dominate the decoration. There is a relief of a raven with its big beak, robust body, up stretching wings and the fan-like tail. There is also a relief of a woodpecker that is described to have a crest on its head, rather long, pointed beak, and not-stretched wings. Besides, there is also a crow with distended chest and wings stretching downward.
The making of many bird reliefs in this temple relates to community belief in transcendental power of birds. It was believed that birds are manifestation of the deities or nirvana. Birds are also related to human absolute freedom that is attained after the renunciation, the symbol of human soul that leaves its body.
Other animal that is often described in the temple is frog. The community believed that frogs have supra natural power to send rain so that it was also believed to increase productivity, because the rain will be able to increase the harvest. The frogs that usually come up from waters also symbolize life renewal and the awakening towards better direction.
The relief still leaves a question of whether it is a fable (the animal story told to children) like the one in Mendut temple or a description of animals that was intentionally made to denote certain meaning. Such question rises because the description of the animals in the temple was not found in any books containing fables such as Jataka, Sukasaptati, Pancatantra and its hereditary versions.
Gampingan temple that is predicted to be built between 730 - 850 AC is believed to be the place for adoring Jambhala (god of prosperity, the child of Siva). The idea is based on the finding of Jambhala statue in the digging process. Jambhala is described to have been meditating; sitting crossed-legged while closing the eyes. The body was decorated by iconographical element (asana) in the form of a lotus with 8 pieces of leaves as the symbol of Vishnu mystical weapon (cakra) in the human body.
The figure of Jambhala in this temple is different from those in other temples. Generally, Jambhalas in other temples are described with wide eyes looking at the worshippers with various accessories symbolizing prosperity and luxury. This different description is believed to be based on the worship motivation, not to invoke prosperity but guidance in order to achieve the real happiness.
Visiting Gampingan temple will lead us to remembering the path we have taken to achieve happiness and prosperity. Relief that is dominated by animals that live in the surrounding environment could be the realization of local community's wisdom by that time in representing a message from nirvana: mankind must keep the harmony of nature in order to live in prosperity and to avoid disaster. (Yunanto Wiji Utomo)

Tara Temple

Tara Temple, the Oldest Buddhism Inheritance in Yogyakarta
Most people will mention Borobudur when talking about Buddhism temples. Whereas, there are many other Buddhism temples in Yogyakarta; one of them that is closely related to Borobudur is Tara temple. This temple that is located in Kalibening village in Kalasan was built by the same person who conceptualized Borobudur temple, namely Rakai Panangkaran. Since it is located in Kalasan area, this temple is popular with the name of Kalasan temple.
Completed in 778 AD, Tara temple becomes the oldest Buddhism temple in Yogyakarta. This temple that is situated close to Yogya-Solo Street was a present of the marriage of Pancapana of Sanjaya dynasty to Dyah Pramudya Wardhani of Syailendra dynasty. In addition to a marriage present, the temple was also realization of the kings' proposal to build another holy temple for goddess Tara and a monastery for the monks.
Tara temple is a building in the form of a cube with the size of each side of 45 meters and 34 meters high. Vertically, this temple consists of three parts, namely temple foot, temple body and temple roof. The foot of the temple is a building on square stones and a wide stone. On this part, there is a stair with makara ornament at the end. Meanwhile, around the temple foot there are ornaments of climbing plants that come out from pots.
The body of the temple protrudes at the central side. At the outer surface of the temple body, a hollow is ornamented with a standing goddess holding lotus. In southeast part, there is a small room with throne ornamented with the motif of a lion standing on an elephant's back. The room can be accessed from the other room at the east side.
The roof of the temple is octagonal and consists of two stories. An effigy describing Buddha is located in the first story while on the second story there is a statue describing Yani Buddha. The top of the temple is a square symbolizing Semeru summit with ornaments of domes. At the interface of the temple body and the roof, there is a flower ornament of a dwarf named Gana.
If you observe the temple in detail, you will also find beautiful relief on its surface; for example, relief of tree of god and cloud and the dwellers of the heaven producing sounds. The dwellers of the heaven hold rebab (two-stringed music instrument), shell, and camara. There are also ornaments of flowers, leaves and climbing plants. Relief at Tara temple is typical since they are coated with special cement called Brajalepha, made from sap of certain tree.
Around the temple, there are 52 domes as high as around 4.6 meters. Even though those domes are not intact anymore, since some parts are missing, you can still enjoy them. Visiting this temple of which construction history is known from Candi inscription in Panagari letters, you will acknowledge the greatness of Rakai Panangkaran who even had the opportunity to build a holy building in Thailand.
This temple also proves that in the past there was an effort to unite people of different religions. The proof is that Panangkaran who was a Hindu built the Tara temple in response to the proposal of Buddhism monks to be presented to Pancapana who is also a Buddhist. This temple is also one of the holy buildings that inspired Atisha, a Buddhist from India who once visited Borobodur and spread Buddhism to Tibet. (Yunanto Wiji Utomo)

Sambisari Temple

21 Yeas construction the Sambisari Temple "Puzzle"
Mr. Karyowinangun did not have any hunch of what was going to happen on one early morning in 1966. When he was preparing the ground for cultivation with his hoe, he felt it bumping a big stone. When he checked it, he saw carvings on the stone. Karyowinangun and the local people wondered about the existence of the stone.
Knowing the discovery, the archeological department came to the site and defined Karyowinangun's field to be archeological site. The carved stone was supposed to be part of a temple that possibly was buried in the area. Excavation was then executed to find hundreds slabs of stone and ancient statues. It turned to be true that those stones were components of a temple.
After 21 years, we can enjoy the beauty of the temple. The temple building named Sambisari stands grandly in Sambisari Village, Purwomartani Sub-District, Kalasan District, Sleman Regency, 10 kilometer away from Yogyakarta city center. You can reach this place by going eastward through the Yogya-Solo road until you see a signboard directing to this temple. Then, you turn left to follow the road.
Arriving at the area of the temple, YogYES first got surprised. Looking at the center of the temple area, there was an only pile of stones of less than 2 meters high. YogYES wondered if it Sambisari temple was that small? Approaching nearer, we will find the answer. In fact, Sambisari temple is 6,5 meters below the surrounding land.
Sambisari temple is predicted to be constructed between 812 - 838 AD, possibly under the government of Rakai Garung. The complex of the temple consists of 1 main temple and 3 supporting temples. There are 2 fences surrounding the temple complex, on the fences was totally reconstructed, while the other was only showed a little in the east side of the temple. Still function as borders, there are 8 stand phalluses distributed in each point of direction.
The main temple building is unique since it does not have shoe basement like other temples in Java. At the same time, the foot of the temple functions as the foundation to make the temple even on the ground. The foot part of the temple is left plain, without reliefs or decorations. Various elements most of them are of plants ornaments are found on the body to the outer part of the temple top. The ornaments look like batik motif.
Stepping up the stairs of the entrance of the temple, we will see an ornament of a dragon in the open mouth of makara (the magical animal in Hindu mythology). The figure of makara in Sambisari is an evolution of the makara form in India that can be in the form of a unification of elephant and fish or a crocodile and curved-tail fish.
The narrow verandah as wide as 1 meter will be found after passing through the last stair of the main temple entrance. Walking around it, you will see 3 cavities with one statue in each of them. In the north part, there is a statue of Durga (the wife of Siva) with 8 hands each of which is holding a weapon. Meanwhile, in the east side, there is Ganesha statue (son of Durga). In the southern side, there is Agastya statue with aksamala on his neck.
Entering the primary compartment of the temple, we can see quite big phallus and yoni measuring at around 1.5 meters. Its existence shows that this temple was build as the place for worshipping Siva. The phallus and the yoni behind this temple were also used to make the holy water. Usually, the water is poured on the phallus and let flow toward the small ditch on the yoni, then it is accommodated in a container.
Exiting from the main temple to go westwards, we will be able to see the three supporting temples (perwara) standing in the opposite direction. There was a prediction that this perwara temple was intentionally constructed without roof because when excavation was done, no roof stones were discovered. The inner part of the central supporting temples (perwara) has a square saucer decorated with dragon ornament and a padmasana on it. Possibly, padmasana and the saucers were utilized as places for statues or offerings.
When we have been satisfied with enjoying the beauty of the temple, we may leave for the information room. Some photographs featuring the rice field owned by Mr. Karyowinangun before the excavation and the early condition of the temple at the early time of the discovery. There are also photographs of the excavation processes and the temple reconstruction that lasted for tens of years, including the photographs of other goods such as bronze statues found during the excavation that are kept in Building of Archeological Heritance Preservation.
The beauty of Sambisari temple that we can enjoy at present time is the result of hard works of the archeologists for 21 years. The temple that initially looked like a giant puzzle was reconstructed piece by piece for the continuation of one more heritance of the great culture in the past. (Yunanto Wiji Utomo)

Pawon Temple

Candi Pawon (Pawon Temple)
Pawon Temple is one and half kilometers westward from Mendut Temple and eastward from Borobudur Temple, it is also a Buddhist temple. When appreciating in detail, its sculpture is the beginning of Borobudur sculpture.
Pawon Temple is not a grave but as a place to keep King Indra's weapon namely Vajranala. This temple was built with volcanic stones. Architecturally it is a blend of old Javanese Hindu and Indian art. Pawon temple is exactly in the central point of the straight line stretched from Borobudur to Mendut Temple.
Perhaps it was built for kubera. It is on a wide rather terrace with steps. All parts are decorated with stupa(s) on dagoba(s) and its outside walls with symbolic pictures. (Yunanto Wiji Utomo)

Mendut Temple

Candi Mendut (Mendut Temple)
Candi Mendut (Mendut Temple) is 3 kilometers eastward from Borobudur Temple. It is a Buddhist temple, built in 824 A.D. by King Indera of Cailendra dynasty.
There are three big statues inside, they are:
Cakyamuni sitting in cross legged pose with dharma cakra mudra (= turning the wheel of dharma hand pose)
Awalokiteswara, a bodhi satwa as human being helper.Awalokiteswara is a statue with Amitabha on her crown, Vajrapani. She is holding a red lotus and put on her palm.
Maitreya, a savior of human beings in the future.
There are stories for children on its walls.
Candi Mendut (Mendut Temple) is frequently used to celebrate the Waisak day every May full moon and the pilgrims from Indonesia and all parts of the world come to this ceremony.
It is older than Candi Borobudur. Its architecture is square, and having an entrance on its steps. Its roof is also square and terraced. There are stupas (= bell-shaped structures) on it. (Yunanto Wiji Utomo)

Ijo Temple

Ijo Temple, the Temple Located at the Highest Place in Yogyakarta
Going along the street leading to the southern part of Queen Boko Palace complex is such an exciting journey, especially for cultural tourism lovers. The reason is that there are so many temples mushrooming in that area. One of them that is rarely talked about is Candi Ijo or Ijo Temple; one temple of which location is the highest compared to other temples in Yogyakarta.
Ijo Temple was built in around the ninth century on a hill named the Green Hill of which height is 410 meters above the sea level. Because of this height, we can enjoy not only the temple but also natural view below such as terraces of agriculture land with its steep slope. Even though this is not a fertile area, natural view around the temple is so beautiful to enjoy.
The complex of the temple consists of 17 building structures that are divided into 11 terraces. The first terrace functioning as the yard leading to the entrance is a terrace with staircase stretching from west to east. The building on the eleventh terrace is in the form of encircling wall, eight pole phallus, four buildings namely the main temple, and three ancillary temples. The placement of the building on each terrace is based on the level of its being sacral. The building on the highest terrace is the most sacral.
Variants of painting are found since the entrance of this Hindu temple. Right on the entrance gate, there is a motif of double head giant and some of its attributes. Such motif and attributes found in Buddhist temples show that such temples are acculturation forms of Hindu and Buddha cultures. Some temples having such giant motif are Ngawen, Plaosan and Sari.
There is also a statue describing flying woman and man directing to certain side. Such description can have some meanings; first, as spells to expel evil spirit and second as symbol of unity between god Siva and goddess Umi. The unity is meant as the onset of universe creation. Different from the statues in Prambanan Temple, natural style of the statues in Ijo Temple do not lead to eroticism.
Approaching the ancillary temples on the eleventh terrace, there is a pit possible used to burn sacrifice. Right on the upper part of the pit back wall there are ventilations in the forms of trapezium and triangle. The pit reflects the Hindu community that adores Brahma, the god of fire. The three ancillary temples show community adoration to the three Hindu gods, namely Brahma, Siva, and Vishnu.
Some of the works that keep mystery are two inscriptions located in the temple building on the ninth terrace. One of the inscriptions is coded by letter F with the writing Guywan or Bluyutan meaning place for meditation. Another inscription is made of stone as high as 14 cm and as thick as 9 cm containing magic spells that are predicted to be curses. The magic spells were written 16 times and parts of them read "Om Sarwwawinasa, Sarwwawinasa." The two inscriptions may relate closely to certain occurrences in Java by that time. What were the occurrences? They are not revealed yet up to now.
Visiting this temple, you will find beautiful scenery that other temples do not have. Looking down westwards, you will see airplane taking off and landing at Adisutjipto International Airport. You see this scenery because the Seribu Mountains where Ijo Temple is located is the border of the east part of the airport. It is because of the presence of this temple that Adisutjipto Airport cannot be lengthened eastwards.
Each detail of the temple presents meaningful thing and invites the visitors to make a reflection so that the journey will not just be fun time. Great paintings without the name of the creators show life philosophy of the past Javanese community that emphasized more on moral message presented by the works rather than the creators or the greatness of their works. (Yunanto Wiji Utomo)

Plaosan Temple

Plaosan Temple, the Twin Temple in Yogyakarta
After visiting Prambanan temple, you should not rush to your hotel, because close to the beautiful Hindu temple, you can also see other interesting temples. Moving 1 kilometer northwards, you will find Plaosan Temple; a temple constructed by Rakai Pikatan for her wife, Pramudyawardani. The architect of the temple that is located in Bugisan village of Prambanan sub-district is combination of Hindu and Buddha.
Plaosan complex is divided into 2 groups, namely the North Plaosan Temple and the South Plaosan Temple. Both of the temples have square terrace that is encircled by wall, a pillbox for meditation at the west part and dome on other side. Because of that similarity, the appearance of both temples are the same when they are seen from distant so that Plaosan temple is also called the twin temples.
The North Plaosan Temple has middle courtyard encircled by wall with the entrance at the west side. In the middle of the courtyard, there is a hall as wide as 21.62 m x 19 m. At the eastern part of the hall, there are 3 altars, namely north, east and south altars. The pictures of Amitbha, Ratnasambhava, Vairochana, and Aksobya are at the east altar. Samantabadhara statue and Ksitigarba figure is at the north altar, while Manjusri picture is at the west alter.
The South Plaosan temple also has a hall at the center that is encircled by 8 small temples that is divided into 2 ranks and each rank consists of 4 temples. There also pictures of Tathagata Amitbha, Vajrapani with vajra attribute at the utpala and Pranjaparamita who was considered "the mother of all Buddha". Some other pictures can still be found but not at their original places. Manujri figure that according to a Dutch scientist named Krom is significant can also be seen.
Part of this bas relief has unique picture of man and woman. There is a man described as sitting cross-legged with worshipping hands and a figure of a man with vara mudra and vse at his leg encircled by six smaller men. A woman is described as standing with vara mudra hands, while there are book, pallet, and vase around her. Krom explains that figures of those man and woman are descriptions of supporting patron from two monasteries.
The entire complex of Plaosan temple has 116 ancillary domes and 50 ancillary temples. Ancillary domes can be seen on each side of the main temple, as can smaller ancillary temples. Walking northwards, you can see open building called Mandapa. Two inscriptions can also be found; they are the inscription on gold coin at the north of the main temple and an inscription written on a stone in the first line of the ancillary temples.
One of the characteristics of Plaosan temple is the smooth surface of the terrace. Krom explains that such a terrace is different from other temples of the same time. To his opinion, it is related to the function of a temple by that time that is predicted to keep canonical texts owned by Buddhist monks. Other prediction by Dutch scientists, if the number of monks in that area is small then the terrace might be used as a place for Buddhists to pray.
If you go around the temple complex, you will notice that the complex of Plaosan temple is wide. That can also be noticed from long fence stretching 460 meters from north to south and 290 meters from west to east. There is also moat inside stretching as long as 440 meters from north to south and 270 meters from west to east. The moat can be seen by walking eastwards through the middle part of this historical building. (Yunanto Wiji Utomo)

Prambanan Temple

Prambanan, the Most Beautiful Hindu Temple in the World
Prambanan temple is extraordinarily beautiful building constructed in the tenth century during the reigns of two kings namely Rakai Pikatan and Rakai Balitung. Soaring up to 47 meters (5 meters higher than Borobudur temple), the foundation of this temple has fulfilled the desire of the founder to show Hindu triumph in Java Island. This temple is located 17 kilometers from the city center, among an area that now functions as beautiful park.
There is a legend that Javanese people always tell about this temple. As the story tells, there was a man named Bandung Bondowoso who loved Roro Jonggrang. To refuse his love, Jonggrang asked Bondowoso to make her a temple with 1,000 statues only in one-night time. The request was nearly fulfilled when Jonggrang asked the villagers to pound rice and to set a fire in order to look like morning had broken. Feeling to be cheated, Bondowoso who only completed 999 statues cursed Jonggrang to be the thousandth statue.
Prambanan temple has three main temples in the primary yard, namely Vishnu, Brahma, and Shiva temples. Those three temples are symbols of Trimurti in Hindu belief. All of them face to the east. Each main temple has accompanying temple facing to the west, namely Nandini for Shiva, Angsa for Brahma, and Garuda for Vishnu. Besides, there are 2 flank temples, 4 kelir temples and 4 corner temples. In the second area, there are 224 temples.
Entering Shiva temple, the highest temple and is located in the middle, you will find four rooms. One main room contains Shiva statue, while the other three rooms contain the statues of Durga (Shiva's wife), Agastya (Shiva's teacher), and Ganesha (Shiva's son). Durga statue is said to be the statue of Roro Jonggrang in the above legend.
In Vishnu temple, to the north of Shiva temple, you will find only one room with Vishnu statue in it. In Brahma temple, to the south of Shiva temple, you find only room as well with Brahma statue in it.
Quite attractive accompanying temple is Garuda temple that is located close to Vishnu temple. This temple keeps a story of half-bird human being named Garuda. Garuda is a mystical bird in Hindu mythology. The figure is of golden body, white face, red wings, with the beak and wings similar to eagle's. It is assumed that the figure is Hindu adaptation of Bennu (means 'rises' or 'shines') that is associated with the god of the Sun or Re in Old Egypt mythology or Phoenix in Old Greek mythology. Garuda succeeded in saving his mother from the curse of Aruna (Garuda's handicapped brother) by stealing Tirta Amerta (the sacred water of the gods).
Its ability to save her mother made many people admire it to the present time and it is used for various purposes. Indonesia uses the bird as the symbol of the country. Other country using the same symbol is Thailand, with the same reason but different form adaptation and appearance. In Thailand, Garuda is known as Krut or Pha Krut.
Prambanan also has panels of relief describing the story of Ramayana. Experts say that the relief is similar to the story of Ramayana that is told orally from generation to generation. Another interesting relief is Kalpataru tree that - in Hindu - the tree is considered tree of life, eternity and environment harmony. In Prambanan, relief of Kalpataru tree is described as flanking a lion. The presence of this tree makes experts consider that Javanese society in the ninth century had wisdom to manage its environment.
Just like Garuda, Kalpataru tree is also used for various purposes. In Indonesia, Kalpataru is used as the logo of Indonesian Environment Institution. Some intellectuals in Bali even develop "Tri Hita Karana" concept for environment conservation by seeing Kalpataru relief in this temple. This tree of life is also seen in the gunungan (the puppet used as an opening of traditional puppet show or wayang kulit). This proves that relief panels in Prambanan have been widely known throughout the world.
If you see the relief in detail, you will see many birds on them; they are real birds as we can see on the earth right now. Relief panels of such birds are so natural that biologists can identify their genus. One of them is the relief of the Yellow-Crest Parrot (Cacatua sulphurea) that cites unanswered question. The reason is that the bird only exists in Masakambing Island, an island in the middle of Java Sea. Then, did the bird exist in Yogyakarta? No body has succeeded in revealing the mystery.
You can discover many more things in Prambanan. You can see relief of Wiracarita Ramayana based on oral tradition. If you feel tired of enjoying the relief, you can take a rest in the beautiful garden in the complex. Since 18 September 2006, you can enter zone 1 area of Prambanan temple. The damage caused by the earthquake on 27 May 2006 is being reconstructed. Please come and enjoy Prambanan temple

Borobudur Temple

Borobudur, the Biggest Buddhist Temple in the Ninth Century
Who does not know Borobudur? This Buddhist temple has 1460 relief panels and 504 Buddha effigies in its complex. Millions of people are eager to visit this building as one of the World Wonder Heritages. It is not surprising since architecturally and functionally, as the place for Buddhists to say their prayer, Borobudur is attractive.
Borobudur was built by King Samaratungga, one of the kings of Old Mataram Kingdom, the descendant of Sailendra dynasty. Based on Kayumwungan inscription, an Indonesian named Hudaya Kandahjaya revealed that Borobudur was a place for praying that was completed to be built on 26 May 824, almost one hundred years from the time the construction was begun. The name of Borobudur, as some people say, means a mountain having terraces (budhara), while other says that Borobudur means monastery on the high place.
Borobudur is constructed as a ten-terraces building. The height before being renovated was 42 meters and 34.5 meters after the renovation because the lowest level was used as supporting base. The first six terraces are in square form, two upper terraces are in circular form, and on top of them is the terrace where Buddha statue is located facing westward. Each terrace symbolizes the stage of human life. In line with of Buddha Mahayana, anyone who intends to reach the level of Buddha's must go through each of those life stages.
The base of Borobudur, called Kamadhatu, symbolizes human being that are still bound by lust. The upper four stories are called Rupadhatu symbolizing human beings that have set themselves free from lust but are still bound to appearance and shape. On this terrace, Buddha effigies are placed in open space; while the other upper three terraces where Buddha effigies are confined in domes with wholes are called Arupadhatu, symbolizing human beings that have been free from lust, appearance and shape. The top part that is called Arupa symbolizes nirvana, where Buddha is residing.
Each terrace has beautiful relief panels showing how skillful the sculptors were. In order to understand the sequence of the stories on the relief panels, you have to walk clockwise from the entrance of the temple. The relief panels tell the legendary story of Ramayana. Besides, there are relief panels describing the condition of the society by that time; for example, relief of farmers' activity reflecting the advance of agriculture system and relief of sailing boat representing the advance of navigation in Bergotta (Semarang).
All relief panels in Borobudur temple reflect Buddha's teachings. For the reason, this temple functions as educating medium for those who want to learn Buddhism. YogYES suggests that you walk through each narrow passage in Borobudur in order for you to know the philosophy of Buddhism. Atisha, a Buddhist from India in the tenth century once visited this temple that was built 3 centuries before Angkor Wat in Cambodia and 4 centuries before the Grand Cathedrals in Europe.
Thanks to visiting Borobudur and having supply of Buddha teaching script from Serlingpa (King of Sriwijaya), Atisha was able to improve Buddha's teachings after his return to India and he built a religion institution, Vikramasila Buddhism. Later he became the leader of Vikramasila monastery and taught Tibetans of practicing Dharma. Six scripts from Serlingpa were then summarized as the core of the teaching called "The Lamp for the Path to Enlightenment" or well known as Bodhipathapradipa.
A question about Borobudur that is still unanswered by far is how the condition around the temple was at the beginning of its foundation and why at the time of it's finding the temple was buried. Some hypotheses claim that Borobudur in its initial foundation was surrounded by swamps and it was buried because of Merapi explosion. It was based on Kalkutta inscription with the writing 'Amawa' that means sea of milk. The Sanskrit word was used to describe the occurrence of disaster. The sea of milk was then translated into Merapi lava. Some others say that Borobudur was buried by cold lava of Merapi Mountain. (Yunanto Wiji Utomo)